{"id":8580,"date":"2014-06-01T20:00:10","date_gmt":"2014-06-02T00:00:10","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/?p=8580"},"modified":"2014-10-26T20:00:50","modified_gmt":"2014-10-27T00:00:50","slug":"xerox-7328-family-fuser-modules-part-ii","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/tech-tip\/2014\/06\/xerox-7328-family-fuser-modules-part-ii\/","title":{"rendered":"Xerox\u00ae 7328 Family Fuser Modules Part II"},"content":{"rendered":"

Repairing and Rebuilding the Fusers for the WorkCentre\u00ae 7328, 7335, 7345 & 7346 series, and 7228, 7235 & 7245 series and C C32 & C2128 series<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"7328

7328 Fuser Module<\/p><\/div>\n

Last month we learned a whole bunch about the 7328 family fuser modules and the fusers of the models which came before. We checked out the differences and similarities between the four versions of the fuser which came out over the years. We also covered the pin-outs of the fuser\u2019s connector so you\u2019d know which pins to check across to test the lamps and other components. Then we started into the instructional on how to take one of these fusers apart to rebuild it and save some money in the process. This month, we\u2019ll recap steps 1-4, and go into depth for the rest of the instructions.<\/p>\n

Let\u2019s get right into it. Here were the first 4 steps in a nutshell. These steps were given with more detail in last month\u2019s article where you\u2019ll also find the first 5 photos.<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. \"clip1\"First we Removed the \u201cFront End\u201d cover<\/strong> (2 screws)<\/li>\n
  2. Next we removed the \u201cRear End\u201d cover<\/strong> (2 screws)<\/li>\n
  3. Then the Exit Baffle<\/strong> (2 screws)<\/li>\n
  4. Followed by the \u201cExit Pinch Roll Baffle\u201d<\/strong> (2 screws)<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

     
    \nNow for the 5th<\/sup> step and beyond!<\/p>\n

      \n
    1. Remove the Inner Cover<\/strong> by turning the fuser so that the Inner Cover is facing upwards and remove 2 screws (see Photo #6).<\/li>\n
    2. \"clip2\"Flip the fuser over again and remove the Outer Cover<\/strong>. You\u2019ll need to remove 2 screws (see Photo #7), remove the rubber caps from the Pressure Tower Screws at either end of the fuser, and pop the cover off of the frame near the Pressure Tower Screws at either end (see Photo #8). It will then lift up and off with a little jiggling.<\/li>\n
    3. Now that the fuser is pretty well stripped down, it\u2019s high time to remove the 2 Fuser Heat Lamps.<\/strong> This is best accomplished by disconnecting the 2 lamp terminals at the rear end, and the 2 terminals at the front end.\u00a0 Next remove the front heat lamp holder bracket (1 screw).\u00a0 Now you can slide the two heat lamps \"clip4\"out through the front end.<\/li>\n
    4. \"clip3\"Next you\u2019ll want to remove the Thermistor \/ Thermostat Assembly<\/strong>. Start by going to the rear of the fuser and disconnecting the white and blue thermistor connectors, and the fuser lamp return connector (the large white connector with the thick black wire). See Photo #9. \u00a0Remove the thermistor and lamp return wires from their wire guides on both the front and rear ends of the fuser.\u00a0 Then remove 2 screws and the Thermistor \/ Thermostat Assembly will come off for you.<\/li>\n
    5. Re-tape the thermistor heads<\/strong>.\u00a0 This is important because if the tape wears all the way through, damage can happen to the thermistor and also to your new Heat Roller\u2019s surface. You can use Kapton\u00ae<\/sup> Tape or K250 (1\/2 inch width is good here).\u00a0 It\u2019s important to remove the old tape very carefully from the head of the thermistor.\u00a0 Use a good sharp razorblade, always cutting outward (don\u2019t cut in towards the padding), and be careful not to damage the foam pad or wires under the tape.\u00a0 Then put only one layer of tape over the thermistor\u2019s head, and anchor it with another piece of tape going around the base in the opposite direction (see Photos #10, 11, & 12).ur fuser new life.\u00a0 Have a good month and we\u2019ll reconvene next month for some new adventures.\"clip5\"<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<\/ol>\n<\/ol>\n<\/ol>\n<\/ol>\n

      10. Take off the Fuser Entrance Guide<\/strong>, which have 2 short screws with washers under them.<\/p>\n

      11. Next you will remove the Stripper Plate \/ Exit Pinch Roll Assembly<\/strong>: Release the two springs which tension the Stripper Plate (see Photo #13) and then pivot the Stripper Plate \/ Exit Pinch Roll Assembly until it can be extracted from the metal shaft it pivots on (see Photo #14). Now clean the edge of the Stripper Plate very gently. The newer models have a thin Text Box: Photo 15: Note how much of the Pressure Screws are below the frame by marking or counting threads. Teflon-like coating which is easily damaged. On this kind you can use your fingernail to scrape the edge carefully. You want to remove any residual fused toner while taking care not to damage the coating. \"clip6\"Older models had a metal plate without the coating and on that kind, you can gently scrape with the blade of a flat-head screwdriver.<\/p>\n

      12. Take careful note of how far the Pressure Screws are screwed down to the frame<\/strong>. You can either mark the screws or count threads exposed below the frame, so you can return them to the same pressure later when you reassemble the fuser (see Photo #15).<\/p>\n

      13. Now for the Pressure Sleeve Assembly<\/strong>. Back out the two pressure tower screws carefully and remove them. Next pivot the Pressure Sleeve Assembly up and off. It might prove helpful later if you first study how the pressure sleeve assembly\u2019s metal tension arms pivot on metal studs and also how the pressure sleeve assembly sits into the tension arms.<\/p>\n

      \"clip7\"14. Replace the Pressure Sleeve if it\u2019s damaged<\/strong>. Note that the pressure sleeves often look wrinkled or twisted after only a short time in use, and this is not always a signal that the sleeve is bad. Make sure there is adequate lubrication inside the sleeve. The recommendation is to put a small amount of high temperature grease on the plastic parts which contact the inside of the sleeve, but avoid getting too much grease on the pressure pad portion of the assembly.<\/p>\n

      15. With the pressure off, you can now easily remove the Fuser Heat Roller<\/strong> by removing the Retaining Clips from either end of the Heat Roller. Check the Fuser Drive Gear for wear and the Heat Roll Bearings to make sure they\u2019re not seized up. Install a new Fuser Heat Roller.<\/p>\n

      16. Reassemble it all<\/strong>. Pay special attention to the pressure screws. Return them to the same position they were in before you removed them. Uneven or overly tight pressure can cause wrinkled copies, while inadequate pressure can cause jams and poor fusing of the image.<\/p>\n

      Now let\u2019s look at how to reset the Fuser Count for each of the models.<\/p>\n

      FUSER COUNT RESET PROCEDURES<\/strong><\/span>:<\/p>\n

      \u00b7 C32 version<\/strong><\/span>: 008R12904 \/ 126K13940 (110 volts), (008R12905 \/ 126K14890 for 220 volt version)<\/p>\n

      For Models: C32\/40, (DocuColor) DC1632, C2240, C3535, & (WorkCenre) M24, M32\/40, Pro32\/40
      \nHold down the \u20189\u2019 and the \u2018AC\u2019 buttons simultaneously. Select \u2018Yes\u2019 when the machine asks if you replaced the fuser.<\/p>\n

      \u00b7 C2128 version<\/strong><\/span>: 008R12933 (110 volts), (008R12934 for 220 volt version)<\/p>\n

      For: (WorkCentre Pro or CopyCentre) C2128, C2636, C3545)
      \n\"clip8\"To get into User Tools mode, Press the \u2018Access\u2019 button. Then use the default User Password \u20181111\u2019 (4 ones) and press \u2018Login.\u2019 Press \u2018More,\u2019 and then look for \u201cSupply Management.\u201d Select the part whose counter you want to reset and follow the prompts (it\u2019ll ask you if you replaced the part, touch \u2018Yes\u2019).<\/p>\n

      \u00b7 7328 version<\/strong><\/span>: 008R13040 (110 volts), (008R13028 for 220 volt version)<\/p>\n

      For: (WorkCentre) 7228, 7235, 7245, 7328, 7335, 7345<\/p>\n

      OR\u2026 7346 version<\/strong><\/span>: 008R13055 (110 volts), (008R13056 for 220 volt version)<\/p>\n

      For: (WorkCentre) 7346 only.
      \nFirst enter diagnostic mode (CE Mode): Hold \u20180\u2019 for at least 10 seconds, then press \u2018Start.\u2019 At the password prompt, enter \u20186789\u2019 followed by \u2018Confirm.\u2019 Now press the \u2018Machine Status\u2019 button. Choose the Tools tab and then choose the following from left to right: System Settings, Common Service Settings, and then in the right column, scroll down and touch Maintenance \/ Diagnostics. Scroll down and touch the button for Adjustment \/ Others. Choose \u2018HFSI Counters\u2019 (High Frequency Service Items). You\u2019ll be prompted for a Chain-link number. Enter \u2018954-804\u2019 and press \u2018Confirm.\u2019 The current fuser count will show up. Touch \u2018Reset Current Value\u2019 followed by \u2018Reset.\u2019<\/p>\n

      Congratulations! You\u2019ve given your fuser new life. Have a good month and we\u2019ll reconvene next month for some new adventures<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

      Repairing and Rebuilding the Fusers for the WorkCentre\u00ae 7328, 7335, 7345 & 7346 series, and 7228, 7235 & 7245 series and C C32 & C2128 series Last month we learned a whole bunch about the 7328 family fuser modules and the fusers of the models which came before. We checked out the differences and similarities between the four versions of the fuser which came out over the years. We also covered the pin-outs of the fuser\u2019s connector so you\u2019d know which pins to check across to test the lamps and other components. Then we started into the instructional on how to take one of these fusers apart to rebuild it and save some money in the process. This month, we\u2019ll recap steps 1-4, and go into depth for the rest of the instructions. Let\u2019s get right into it. Here were the first 4 steps in a nutshell. These steps were given with more detail in last month\u2019s article where you\u2019ll also find the first 5 photos. First we Removed the \u201cFront End\u201d cover (2 screws) Next we removed the \u201cRear End\u201d cover (2 screws) Then the Exit Baffle (2 screws) Followed by the \u201cExit Pinch Roll Baffle\u201d (2 screws)   Now for the 5th step and beyond! Remove the Inner Cover by turning the fuser so that the Inner Cover is facing upwards and remove 2 screws (see Photo #6). Flip the fuser over again and remove the Outer Cover. You\u2019ll need to remove 2 screws (see Photo #7), remove the rubber caps from the Pressure Tower Screws at either end of the fuser, and pop the cover off of the frame near the Pressure Tower Screws at either end (see Photo #8). It will then lift up and off with a little jiggling. Now that the fuser is pretty well stripped down, it\u2019s high time to remove the 2 Fuser Heat Lamps. This is best accomplished by disconnecting the 2 lamp terminals at the rear end, and the 2 terminals at the front end.\u00a0 Next remove the front heat lamp holder bracket (1 screw).\u00a0 Now you can slide the two heat lamps out through the front end. Next you\u2019ll want to remove the Thermistor \/ Thermostat Assembly. Start by going to the rear of the fuser and disconnecting the white and blue thermistor connectors, and the fuser lamp return connector (the large white connector with the thick black wire). See Photo #9. \u00a0Remove the thermistor and lamp return wires from their wire guides on both the front and rear ends of the fuser.\u00a0 Then remove 2 screws and the Thermistor \/ Thermostat Assembly will come off for you. Re-tape the thermistor heads.\u00a0 This is important because if the tape wears all the way through, damage can happen to the thermistor and also to your new Heat Roller\u2019s surface. You can use Kapton\u00ae Tape or K250 (1\/2 inch width is good here).\u00a0 It\u2019s important to remove the old tape very carefully from the head of the thermistor.\u00a0 Use a good sharp razorblade, always cutting outward (don\u2019t cut in towards the padding), and be careful not to damage the foam pad or wires under the tape.\u00a0 Then put only one layer of tape over the thermistor\u2019s head, and anchor it with another piece of tape going around the base in the opposite direction (see Photos #10, 11, & 12).ur fuser new life.\u00a0 Have a good month and we\u2019ll reconvene next month for some new adventures. 10. Take off the Fuser Entrance Guide, which have 2 short screws with washers under them. 11. Next you will remove the Stripper Plate \/ Exit Pinch Roll Assembly: Release the two springs which tension the Stripper Plate (see Photo #13) and then pivot the Stripper Plate \/ Exit Pinch Roll Assembly until it can be extracted from the metal shaft it pivots on (see Photo #14). Now clean the edge of the Stripper Plate very gently. The newer models have a thin Text Box: Photo 15: Note how much of the Pressure Screws are below the frame by marking or counting threads. Teflon-like coating which is easily damaged. On this kind you can use your fingernail to scrape the edge carefully. You want to remove any residual fused toner while taking care not to damage the coating. Older models had a metal plate without the coating and on that kind, you can gently scrape with the blade of a flat-head screwdriver. 12. Take careful note of how far the Pressure Screws are screwed down to the frame. You can either mark the screws or count threads exposed below the frame, so you can return them to the same pressure later when you reassemble the fuser (see Photo #15). 13. Now for the Pressure Sleeve Assembly. Back out the two pressure tower screws carefully and remove them. Next pivot the Pressure Sleeve Assembly up and off. It might prove helpful later if you first study how the pressure sleeve assembly\u2019s metal tension arms pivot on metal studs and also how the pressure sleeve assembly sits into the tension arms. 14. Replace the Pressure Sleeve if it\u2019s damaged. Note that the pressure sleeves often look wrinkled or twisted after only a short time in use, and this is not always a signal that the sleeve is bad. Make sure there is adequate lubrication inside the sleeve. The recommendation is to put a small amount of high temperature grease on the plastic parts which contact the inside of the sleeve, but avoid getting too much grease on the pressure pad portion of the assembly. 15. With the pressure off, you can now easily remove the Fuser Heat Roller by removing the Retaining Clips from either end of the Heat Roller. Check the Fuser Drive Gear for wear and the Heat Roll Bearings to make sure they\u2019re not seized up. Install a new Fuser Heat Roller. 16. Reassemble it all. Pay special attention to the pressure screws. Return them to the same position they were in before you removed […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":64,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[1649,1814,1648],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8580"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/64"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=8580"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8580\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8585,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8580\/revisions\/8585"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=8580"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=8580"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=8580"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}