{"id":25771,"date":"2017-09-26T07:52:28","date_gmt":"2017-09-26T14:52:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/?p=25771"},"modified":"2017-09-26T07:57:09","modified_gmt":"2017-09-26T14:57:09","slug":"xerox-color-550-dcp-700-rebuilding-the-second-btr-roll-assemblies-dc250-style-time-and-patience","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/tech-tip\/2017\/09\/xerox-color-550-dcp-700-rebuilding-the-second-btr-roll-assemblies-dc250-style-time-and-patience\/","title":{"rendered":"Xerox Color 550 &#038; DCP 700: Rebuilding the Second BTR Roll Assemblies (DC250 style) &#8211; Time and Patience"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>Xerox Docucolor 240, 250, 242, 252, 260, WorkCentre 7655, 7665, 7675, 7655, 7665, 7675, Xerox Color 550\/560\/570, C60\/C70, DCP-700\/700i\/770, Color Press C75\/J75<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignleft wp-image-25849 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/550-BTR-PICTURE-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"610\" height=\"281\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/550-BTR-PICTURE-1.jpg 610w, https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/550-BTR-PICTURE-1-300x138.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 610px) 100vw, 610px\" \/>A bit of time and a healthy dose of patience (as well as a few replacement parts) are all that\u2019s needed to rebuild one of the DCP700 or Color 550 2nd BTR roller (transfer roll) assemblies. \u00a0The first few techs who rebuilt these reported that what at first looked like an easy repair turned out to be quite complicated. I have been wanting to write an article on one for some time now. \u00a0For this article I recruited my brother Kurt\u2019s help. \u00a0He showed me how the assembly comes apart and with his guidance the repair became far more approachable.<\/p>\n<p>As is true with most things, the repair gets easier with experience. \u00a0There are a few tidbits of knowledge which make this procedure go a lot smoother. \u00a0One of the keys is to slide the pivot shaft out through the front end of the unit rather than the rear. The temptation is to leave a pair of e-clips on the shaft and slide it out through the rear end\u2014but as it turns out, there\u2019s a ground clip inside which you need to sneak the shaft past. \u00a0The rear end of the shaft is rounded to help get it by that ground point. \u00a0You\u2019ll also see there are parts which don\u2019t need to be removed at all, in particular the cam shaft and all the hardware on that part of the assembly.<\/p>\n<p>There are two types of screws on this assembly: long plastic thread screws and short metal thread screws. \u00a0It\u2019s important to put the correct kind of screws back in the right spots or you\u2019ll run into problems. \u00a0The instructions below will mention which type of screw is in each position.<\/p>\n<p>There are four versions of this assembly depending on which model machine you\u2019re working on. Though all are similar, they are not completely interchangeable.DC250 version:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>059K45987 \/ 059K88420\u00a0(for: DC240\/DC242\/DC250\/DC252\/DC260, WC-7655\/7665\/7675, WC-7755\/7765\/7775)<\/li>\n<li>550 version: 059K68395 (for 550\/560\/570, C60\/C70)<\/li>\n<li>700 version: 059K55905 \/ 059K78323 (for DCP 700\/700i\/770)<\/li>\n<li>J75 version: 059K79314 (for J75 \/ C75)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>For this month\u2019s article, we\u2019re going to tackle the bulk of the rebuild procedure. We\u2019ll use the 550 version as the guinea pig. \u00a0Note that the 700 and J75 versions are extremely similar in their complexity. I\u2019m told the DC250 version is easier to take apart. \u00a0 We will get all the way through freeing up the sub-assembly which has the transfer roll \/ blade \/ brush and wax bar so that it can be lifted out of the unit. \u00a0Then, next month, we\u2019ll finish the procedure and look at the differences between the four versions.<\/p>\n<p>You\u2019ll want to keep the following tools handy:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Philips head screwdriver (or 5.5 mm nutdriver)<\/li>\n<li>Small flat-bladed screwdriver<\/li>\n<li>Needle-nosed pliers or a spring hook.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>PROCEDURE:<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_25774\" style=\"width: 493px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-25774\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-25774\" src=\"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/photo-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"483\" height=\"426\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/photo-1.jpg 483w, https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/photo-1-300x265.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 483px) 100vw, 483px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-25774\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo #1: Remove tension springs<\/p><\/div>\n<p>1. Use a spring hook or needle-nosed pliers to <strong>remove the two tension springs<\/strong> at the bottom of the unit (one each at the front and rear ends, see photo #1)<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_25775\" style=\"width: 495px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-25775\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-25775\" src=\"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/photo-2.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"485\" height=\"409\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/photo-2.jpg 485w, https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/photo-2-300x253.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 485px) 100vw, 485px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-25775\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo #2: Notice the location of the markings on the cam adjust collar<\/p><\/div>\n<p>2. <strong>Take notice of the position of the 2 \u201cdashes\u201d on the cam adjust collars<\/strong> (see photo #2). \u00a0In this example and on all of the ones we\u2019ve seen so far, these two dashes are positioned at the very top of the unit (at the 12:00 position). \u00a0This is true for both the front and rear cam adjust collars.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Important NOTE: the two cam adjust collars are not identical.<\/strong> \u00a0Instead, they are mirror images of one another. \u00a0You can tell them apart because the one at the front end is the thicker of the two.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_25776\" style=\"width: 493px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-25776\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-25776\" src=\"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-3.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"483\" height=\"334\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-3.jpg 483w, https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-3-300x207.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-3-160x110.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 483px) 100vw, 483px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-25776\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo #3: Front end<\/p><\/div>\n<p>3. <strong>Remove the front-end cover<\/strong> (1 screw at the upper left corner: short machine thread), then shift cover to your right and let it hang by its wiring harnesses. (see photo #3)<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_25777\" style=\"width: 494px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-25777\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-25777\" src=\"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-4.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"484\" height=\"407\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-4.jpg 484w, https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-4-300x252.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 484px) 100vw, 484px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-25777\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo #4: Top entrance baffle: One screw from the front, one up top near the front and another near the rear end.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>4. <strong>Take off the top entrance baffle<\/strong> (the metal baffle). Remove 2 screws from the top and 1 from the front end (see photo #4).<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_25778\" style=\"width: 493px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-25778\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-25778\" src=\"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-5.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"483\" height=\"412\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-5.jpg 483w, https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-5-300x256.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 483px) 100vw, 483px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-25778\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo #5: Front indexing bracket (4 screws, #2 is the only machine-thread of the 4)<\/p><\/div>\n<p>5. <strong>Next the front inner bracket can come off<\/strong> (4 screws from the front. Of these, 3 are long plastic thread screws. \u00a0The one on the lower left is a short metal thread screw)<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_25779\" style=\"width: 546px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-25779\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-25779\" src=\"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-6.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"536\" height=\"380\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-6.jpg 536w, https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-6-300x213.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 536px) 100vw, 536px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-25779\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo #6: One screw to remove the front inner cam plate.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>6. <strong>Next, take off the large front gear<\/strong> (1 e-clip) <strong>and then the front cam adjust collar<\/strong> can also slide off (but see the important note in step #2!)<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_25780\" style=\"width: 495px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-25780\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-25780\" src=\"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-7.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"485\" height=\"270\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-7.jpg 485w, https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-7-300x167.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 485px) 100vw, 485px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-25780\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo #7: Front inner cam plate shown removed from the unit. Be careful not to lose the Indexing Finger from either end of the unit. They are spring loaded and not captive.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>7. <strong>Also pop off the small front gear<\/strong> (1 e-clip)<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_25781\" style=\"width: 496px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-25781\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-25781\" src=\"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-8.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"486\" height=\"363\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-8.jpg 486w, https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-8-300x224.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 486px) 100vw, 486px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-25781\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo #8: Rear end<\/p><\/div>\n<p>8. <strong>The front inner cam plate can now come off.<\/strong> Extract it from around the BTR roll\u2019s shaft. Be careful with the little cam indexing finger, though. This finger is spring loaded and not captive, so it can easily fall off if you\u2019re not paying close attention. \u00a0NEXT for the rear end (see photo #8):<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_25782\" style=\"width: 494px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-25782\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-25782\" src=\"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-9.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"484\" height=\"364\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-9.jpg 484w, https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-9-300x226.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 484px) 100vw, 484px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-25782\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo #9: Rear cam plate (4 screws)<\/p><\/div>\n<p>9. <strong>Remove the BTR drive gear<\/strong> (DC250BTRDG) from the end of the BTR roller\u2019s shaft (it is just pushed onto the D-shaft and will pop off fairly easily).<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_25783\" style=\"width: 496px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-25783\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-25783\" src=\"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-10.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"486\" height=\"378\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-10.jpg 486w, https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Photo-10-300x233.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 486px) 100vw, 486px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-25783\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo #10: Extract pivot shaft out front end<\/p><\/div>\n<p>10. <strong>Also remove the BTR drive idler gear<\/strong> (DC250BTRDIG or DC700BTRDIG) from its shaft (1 e-clip) and then remove 2 other e-clips from the same shaft behind where the gear was mounted. \u00a0(see Photo #8)<\/p>\n<p>11. Remove the rear BTR roll bias <strong>contact<\/strong> (1 screw \u2013 short machine thread)<\/p>\n<p>12. <strong>Next take off the rear plastic plate.<\/strong> This plate is black plastic and had the bias contact attached to it. It also holds the cam adjust collar\u2019s indexing pin (as with the one on the front end, this piece is spring loaded. Be very careful as the indexing finger can pop or slide off and get lost). There are 3 screws. The bottom screw has long plastic threads and the two upper screws have short machine threads.<\/p>\n<p>13. <strong>Now you can remove the cam adjust collar<\/strong> and its bearing from the BTR roll\u2019s shaft (1 e-clip).<\/p>\n<p>14. <strong>Extract the rear cam inner collar<\/strong> from the BTR roll\u2019s shaft as well.<\/p>\n<p>15. <strong>Slide the pivot shaft out through the front end.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Important NOTE:<\/strong> When reassembling, you will need to insert the pivot shaft in again through the front end so that the rounded rear end will make it past a ground clip inside the pivot frame.<\/p>\n<p>Ok\u2026 so I hate to leave you all hanging! \u00a0But we\u2019ll need to wait till next month to do the honors of actually lifting the BTR roll \/ brush \/ blade \/ wax bar assembly out of the unit (hint: you\u2019ll be lifting the front end out first and you\u2019ll want to be gentle with the mylar seal blade on the unit). \u00a0Next month we\u2019ll also take a good look at the various versions and what makes them different from one another. We\u2019ll take an especially close look at the gears on each version.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Xerox Docucolor 240, 250, 242, 252, 260, WorkCentre 7655, 7665, 7675, 7655, 7665, 7675, Xerox Color 550\/560\/570, C60\/C70, DCP-700\/700i\/770, Color Press C75\/J75 A bit of time and a healthy dose of patience (as well as a few replacement parts) are all that\u2019s needed to rebuild one of the DCP700 or Color 550 2nd BTR roller (transfer roll) assemblies. \u00a0The first few techs who rebuilt these reported that what at first looked like an easy repair turned out to be quite complicated. I have been wanting to write an article on one for some time now. \u00a0For this article I recruited my brother Kurt\u2019s help. \u00a0He showed me how the assembly comes apart and with his guidance the repair became far more approachable. As is true with most things, the repair gets easier with experience. \u00a0There are a few tidbits of knowledge which make this procedure go a lot smoother. \u00a0One of the keys is to slide the pivot shaft out through the front end of the unit rather than the rear. The temptation is to leave a pair of e-clips on the shaft and slide it out through the rear end\u2014but as it turns out, there\u2019s a ground clip inside which you need to sneak the shaft past. \u00a0The rear end of the shaft is rounded to help get it by that ground point. \u00a0You\u2019ll also see there are parts which don\u2019t need to be removed at all, in particular the cam shaft and all the hardware on that part of the assembly. There are two types of screws on this assembly: long plastic thread screws and short metal thread screws. \u00a0It\u2019s important to put the correct kind of screws back in the right spots or you\u2019ll run into problems. \u00a0The instructions below will mention which type of screw is in each position. There are four versions of this assembly depending on which model machine you\u2019re working on. Though all are similar, they are not completely interchangeable.DC250 version: 059K45987 \/ 059K88420\u00a0(for: DC240\/DC242\/DC250\/DC252\/DC260, WC-7655\/7665\/7675, WC-7755\/7765\/7775) 550 version: 059K68395 (for 550\/560\/570, C60\/C70) 700 version: 059K55905 \/ 059K78323 (for DCP 700\/700i\/770) J75 version: 059K79314 (for J75 \/ C75) For this month\u2019s article, we\u2019re going to tackle the bulk of the rebuild procedure. We\u2019ll use the 550 version as the guinea pig. \u00a0Note that the 700 and J75 versions are extremely similar in their complexity. I\u2019m told the DC250 version is easier to take apart. \u00a0 We will get all the way through freeing up the sub-assembly which has the transfer roll \/ blade \/ brush and wax bar so that it can be lifted out of the unit. \u00a0Then, next month, we\u2019ll finish the procedure and look at the differences between the four versions. You\u2019ll want to keep the following tools handy: Philips head screwdriver (or 5.5 mm nutdriver) Small flat-bladed screwdriver Needle-nosed pliers or a spring hook. PROCEDURE: 1. Use a spring hook or needle-nosed pliers to remove the two tension springs at the bottom of the unit (one each at the front and rear ends, see photo #1) 2. Take notice of the position of the 2 \u201cdashes\u201d on the cam adjust collars (see photo #2). \u00a0In this example and on all of the ones we\u2019ve seen so far, these two dashes are positioned at the very top of the unit (at the 12:00 position). \u00a0This is true for both the front and rear cam adjust collars. Important NOTE: the two cam adjust collars are not identical. \u00a0Instead, they are mirror images of one another. \u00a0You can tell them apart because the one at the front end is the thicker of the two. 3. Remove the front-end cover (1 screw at the upper left corner: short machine thread), then shift cover to your right and let it hang by its wiring harnesses. (see photo #3) 4. Take off the top entrance baffle (the metal baffle). Remove 2 screws from the top and 1 from the front end (see photo #4). 5. Next the front inner bracket can come off (4 screws from the front. Of these, 3 are long plastic thread screws. \u00a0The one on the lower left is a short metal thread screw) 6. Next, take off the large front gear (1 e-clip) and then the front cam adjust collar can also slide off (but see the important note in step #2!) 7. Also pop off the small front gear (1 e-clip) 8. The front inner cam plate can now come off. Extract it from around the BTR roll\u2019s shaft. Be careful with the little cam indexing finger, though. This finger is spring loaded and not captive, so it can easily fall off if you\u2019re not paying close attention. \u00a0NEXT for the rear end (see photo #8): 9. Remove the BTR drive gear (DC250BTRDG) from the end of the BTR roller\u2019s shaft (it is just pushed onto the D-shaft and will pop off fairly easily). 10. Also remove the BTR drive idler gear (DC250BTRDIG or DC700BTRDIG) from its shaft (1 e-clip) and then remove 2 other e-clips from the same shaft behind where the gear was mounted. \u00a0(see Photo #8) 11. Remove the rear BTR roll bias contact (1 screw \u2013 short machine thread) 12. Next take off the rear plastic plate. This plate is black plastic and had the bias contact attached to it. It also holds the cam adjust collar\u2019s indexing pin (as with the one on the front end, this piece is spring loaded. Be very careful as the indexing finger can pop or slide off and get lost). There are 3 screws. The bottom screw has long plastic threads and the two upper screws have short machine threads. 13. Now you can remove the cam adjust collar and its bearing from the BTR roll\u2019s shaft (1 e-clip). 14. Extract the rear cam inner collar from the BTR roll\u2019s shaft as well. 15. Slide the pivot shaft out through the front end. Important NOTE: When reassembling, you will need to insert the pivot shaft in again through [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":64,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[1648],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/25771"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/64"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=25771"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/25771\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":25850,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/25771\/revisions\/25850"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=25771"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=25771"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=25771"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}