{"id":11495,"date":"2015-02-27T13:50:06","date_gmt":"2015-02-27T18:50:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/?p=11495"},"modified":"2015-03-06T13:56:16","modified_gmt":"2015-03-06T18:56:16","slug":"tech-tip-xerox-5632-5675-fuser-modules","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/tech-tip\/2015\/02\/tech-tip-xerox-5632-5675-fuser-modules\/","title":{"rendered":"Tech Tip: Xerox 5632 & 5675 Fuser Modules"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"AprilRepairing and rebuilding the fusers for the (WorkCentre\u00ae<\/sup><\/strong>) WC232-275, WC5632-5687, WC5735-5790, & WC5845-5875<\/em><\/p>\n

It\u2019s hard to imagine that it\u2019s been nearly 7 years since we took a look at the C35 fuser modules in a July 2008 ENX<\/em> article.\u00a0 Since then, the C35 style continues to proliferate. There are newer versions of the fusers which go along with all of the many subsequent models which came out since then.\u00a0 Rebuilding the fusers is one good way to cut costs.\u00a0 Good replacement parts are available and I think you\u2019ll see that the fusers are fairly easy to work on.\u00a0 We\u2019ll look over the differences and similarities between the versions, talk about which parts to replace, and then get into the procedure for taking apart one of the high speed fusers to rebuild it.<\/p>\n

\"Photo

Photo #1: Heat Roll comparisons<\/p><\/div>\n

First let\u2019s compare the four versions of these fusers. The parts which remain consistent are the web, the picker fingers, and the web pinch roll.<\/p>\n

The differences in parts are as follows:<\/p>\n

    \n
  • 4 types of the CRUM chips in 110 volt versions, and 4 different ones for the 220 volt versions (each fuser part number has its own CRUM chip)<\/li>\n
  • 3 types of the heat rolls which are not interchangeable (see Photo #1)<\/li>\n
  • 2 types of pressure rolls with other differences in the pressure mechanism. The high speed fusers have a larger diameter.<\/li>\n
  • Heat lamps are different too.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
    \"Photo

    Photo #2: Rear end of fuser<\/p><\/div>\n

    Below are the four fuser part #\u2019s, the models they fit, and which versions of parts each one uses:<\/p>\n

    –\u00a0 C35 version:<\/span><\/strong> For (DocumentCentre) DC535\/545\/555, (CopyCentre) C35\/45\/55,\u00a0(WorkCentre) M35\/45\/55, WC-Pro35\/45\/55, WC-5030\/5050<\/p>\n

    109R636<\/strong> (110 volt \u2013 U.S.), 109R634<\/strong> (220 volt \u2013 Europe), 109R750<\/strong> (220 volt \u2013 Swedish) C35 version of fuser heat roll, C35 version of press roll, 520 watt fuser lamps<\/p>\n

    –\u00a0 WC 232 version:<\/span><\/strong> For (CopyCentre, WorkCentre & WC-Pro) 232\/238\/245\/255,\u00a0WC-5135\/5150\/5632\/5638\/5645\/5655, WC-5735\/5740\/5745\/5755, WC-5835\/5845\/5855<\/p>\n

    109R752<\/strong> (110 volt \u2013 U.S.), 109R751<\/strong> (220 volt \u2013 Europe)\u00a0 5632 version of fuser heat roll, C35 version of press roll, 905 watt fuser lamps<\/p>\n

    –\u00a0 165 version:<\/span><\/strong> For (CopyCentre, WorkCentre, M, & WC-Pro) 165\/175\/265\/275<\/p>\n

    109R723<\/strong> (110 volt \u2013 U.S.), 109R724<\/strong> (220 volt \u2013 Europe)\u00a0 5675 version of fuser heat roll, 5675 version of press roll, 1100 watt fuser lamps<\/p>\n

    –\u00a0 5675 version<\/span><\/strong>: For (WorkCentre) WC-5665\/5675\/5687, WC-5865\/5875\/5890<\/p>\n

    109R773<\/strong> (110 volt \u2013 U.S.), 109R772 <\/strong>(220 volt \u2013 Europe)\u00a0\u00a05675 version of fuser heat roll, 5675 version of press roll, 1100 watt fuser lamps<\/p>\n

    Tools you\u2019ll need:\u00a0 <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

      \n
    • 5.5 mm Nut Driver<\/strong> (or #2 Philips screwdriver)<\/li>\n
    • Snap-Ring Pliers<\/strong> (heavy duty)<\/li>\n
    • Heavy Spring Hook<\/strong> (or a small flat-head screwdriver)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

      Parts you\u2019ll need:<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

        \n
      • Fuser Cleaning Web<\/strong><\/li>\n
      • Fuser Heat Roller<\/strong><\/b><\/li>\n
      • CRUM Chip<\/strong> (for resetting the fuser counter)<\/li>\n
      • Picker Fingers<\/strong> (set of 5)<\/li>\n
      • Thermistor repair tape <\/strong>(Kapton tape)<\/b><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

        Other parts you might need:<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

          \n
        • Pressure Roll:<\/strong> It\u2019s been reported from the field that the pressure roll may not need replacing all the time. \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 We\u2019ve seen that although the surface becomes twisted and wrinkly shortly into the roller\u2019s life, it usually continues to serve its purpose without a problem.<\/li>\n
        • Web Pinch Roll:<\/strong> Check this orange foam roll for any bad flat spots which might be severe enough to cause it to stop turning. The pinch roll does not always require replacing.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
          \"Photo

          Photo #3: Picker finger assembly<\/p><\/div>\n

          Procedure<\/span><\/strong>: (This procedure shows the 5675 version although other versions are very similar)<\/p>\n

          Important General Tip:\u00a0 <\/strong>The plastic parts in fusers often get brittle due to exposure to heat and ozone and can become fragile, so be gentle when handling the parts, and take care not to over-tighten the screws when you put things back together.<\/p>\n

           <\/p>\n

            \n
          1. Start by removing the Top Cover<\/strong> (4 screws from the top), followed by the front yellow handle which lifts out easily once the top cover is off.<\/li>\n
          2. Next, remove the Picker Finger Assembly<\/strong> from the right side of the fuser (2 screws from the right). Unplug the Exit Sensor\u2019s connector near the rear end of the assembly (see Photo #2).<\/li>\n
          3. Replace the 5 Picker Fingers.<\/strong> Inspect the Exit Sensor and its Actuator (be particularly gentle with the tip of the Actuator as it can be fragile). Remove each Finger Spring and then rotate the finger till the slots on the finger\u2019s holes line up with the protrusions on the plastic which they are mounted on (see Photo #3).<\/li>\n
          4. Remove the Web Assembly<\/strong> by first sliding the off-white colored Web Drive Coupling off of the web, and then removing 2 screws from the top. Note that the front screw also holds the metal tensioner for the Web Drive Coupling in place (this piece prevents the coupling from turning backwards).<\/li>\n
          5. Replace the Web and check the Web Pinch Roll<\/strong> (if it has a bad flat spot, replace it as well).<\/li>\n
          6. Now for removing the Bottom Cover:<\/strong> First open the Lower Right Baffle and use a spring-hook to release the spring near the rear end (see Photo #4). Then Remove 4 screws (long plastic-thread screws). Two of these screws are from the front end (low down, see Photo #5), and two screws are from the rear end (also low down). Then you can lift the fuser out of the bottom cover. Pay attention to the front end. You\u2019ll need to lift the assembly a bit and then shift it toward the front end to navigate the green tension release handle out of the cover.<\/li>\n
          7. Disconnect the 2 front Fuser Lamp Connectors <\/strong>and remove the Front Lamp Holder Bracket (1 screw).<\/li>\n
          8. Disconnect the 2 rear Fuser Lamp Connectors. <\/strong>You\u2019ll also want to remove 1 screw (from the top) which holds a ground wire (green wire) to the top metal tie-bar (refer back to Photo #2).<\/li>\n
          9. Next remove the Rear Lamp Holder Bracket <\/strong>(1 screw from the rear just above the heat lamp connectors).<\/li>\n
          10. Now the Thermistor \/ Thermal Fuse Assembly is ready to be removed <\/strong>from the left side of the fuser (2 screws from the left).<\/li>\n
          11. Re-tape the heads of the 2 Thermistors <\/strong>so that they do not wear all the way through during the fuser\u2019s second cycle. Check the 2 Thermal Fuses for continuity<\/strong> to make sure neither one of them have been blown by an overheat condition.<\/li>\n
          12. Slide the Fuser Heat Lamps out<\/strong> of the heat roll. Note that they are two of the same lamps oriented in opposite directions. Also note that the heat lamp connectors\u2019 clips sometimes break. If this happens, when you reassemble, you\u2019ll need to find a piece of electrical tape or some other way to be certain the connectors do not become disconnected during use.<\/li>\n
          13. Remove the metal Lower Entrance Baffle <\/strong>(2 screws from the left side).<\/li>\n
          14. Release the pressure in the fuser<\/strong> by rotating the front green handle to a fully open position and gently rest the unit on the handle (see Photo #6) so the pressure doesn\u2019t accidentally close up on you while you are completing the final few steps.<\/li>\n
          15. Take note of how the Heat Roll Bearings and Bushings<\/strong> are oriented (see Photo # 7). The flanges on both bearings are positioned toward the outer ends of the heat roller (outside of the metal frame), but both of the bushings\u2019 flanges are facing the front end of the fuser. That\u2019s different from the way most fusers are assembled. If these babies get assembled wrong, it\u2019d allow the roller bearings to become loose of the metal frame and all of your hard work would get ruined!<\/li>\n
          16. Now for the Heat Roll Assembly. <\/strong>Remove the rear snap-ring (use heavy snap-ring pliers) and slide the Heat Roll Drive Gear and the rear bearing off the rear end of the Heat Roll. Gently slide theHeat Roll toward the front end and remove it.<\/li>\n
          17. Finally the Pressure Roll can be lifted out of its cradles.<\/strong> Note that the Pressure Roll Bearings have the flanges positioned toward the center of the roll (they sit inside the metal frame at both ends when you reinstall the Pressure Roll).<\/li>\n
          18. Put it all back together with your shiny new parts!<\/strong> Note: You\u2019ll want to reconnect the Exit Sensor connector early in reassembly as it is in an awkward position, with precious little in the way of slack on the wires. It can be tricky to reconnect if too much stuff is in the way of your fingers.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
            \"Photo

            Photo #4: Lower right baffle spring<\/p><\/div>\n

            \"Photo

            Photo #5: Bottom cover – screw locations at front<\/p><\/div>\n

            \"Photo

            Photo #6: Pressure fully released<\/p><\/div>\n

             <\/p>\n

             <\/p>\n

             <\/p>\n

             <\/p>\n

             <\/p>\n

             <\/p>\n

            \"Photo

            Photo #7: Critical to success: proper Bearing & Bushing positioning (rear end of heat roll)<\/p><\/div>\n

            That\u2019s it!\u00a0 Your fuser is as good as new.\u00a0 Well back to shoveling snow for us here in the northeast.\u00a0 Hope you are all having a great winter.\u00a0 Happy fuser rebuilding to you all!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

            Repairing and rebuilding the fusers for the (WorkCentre\u00ae) WC232-275, WC5632-5687, WC5735-5790, & WC5845-5875 It\u2019s hard to imagine that it\u2019s been nearly 7 years since we took a look at the C35 fuser modules in a July 2008 ENX article.\u00a0 Since then, the C35 style continues to proliferate. There are newer versions of the fusers which go along with all of the many subsequent models which came out since then.\u00a0 Rebuilding the fusers is one good way to cut costs.\u00a0 Good replacement parts are available and I think you\u2019ll see that the fusers are fairly easy to work on.\u00a0 We\u2019ll look over the differences and similarities between the versions, talk about which parts to replace, and then get into the procedure for taking apart one of the high speed fusers to rebuild it. First let\u2019s compare the four versions of these fusers. The parts which remain consistent are the web, the picker fingers, and the web pinch roll. The differences in parts are as follows: 4 types of the CRUM chips in 110 volt versions, and 4 different ones for the 220 volt versions (each fuser part number has its own CRUM chip) 3 types of the heat rolls which are not interchangeable (see Photo #1) 2 types of pressure rolls with other differences in the pressure mechanism. The high speed fusers have a larger diameter. Heat lamps are different too. Below are the four fuser part #\u2019s, the models they fit, and which versions of parts each one uses: –\u00a0 C35 version: For (DocumentCentre) DC535\/545\/555, (CopyCentre) C35\/45\/55,\u00a0(WorkCentre) M35\/45\/55, WC-Pro35\/45\/55, WC-5030\/5050 109R636 (110 volt \u2013 U.S.), 109R634 (220 volt \u2013 Europe), 109R750 (220 volt \u2013 Swedish) C35 version of fuser heat roll, C35 version of press roll, 520 watt fuser lamps –\u00a0 WC 232 version: For (CopyCentre, WorkCentre & WC-Pro) 232\/238\/245\/255,\u00a0WC-5135\/5150\/5632\/5638\/5645\/5655, WC-5735\/5740\/5745\/5755, WC-5835\/5845\/5855 109R752 (110 volt \u2013 U.S.), 109R751 (220 volt \u2013 Europe)\u00a0 5632 version of fuser heat roll, C35 version of press roll, 905 watt fuser lamps –\u00a0 165 version: For (CopyCentre, WorkCentre, M, & WC-Pro) 165\/175\/265\/275 109R723 (110 volt \u2013 U.S.), 109R724 (220 volt \u2013 Europe)\u00a0 5675 version of fuser heat roll, 5675 version of press roll, 1100 watt fuser lamps –\u00a0 5675 version: For (WorkCentre) WC-5665\/5675\/5687, WC-5865\/5875\/5890 109R773 (110 volt \u2013 U.S.), 109R772 (220 volt \u2013 Europe)\u00a0\u00a05675 version of fuser heat roll, 5675 version of press roll, 1100 watt fuser lamps Tools you\u2019ll need:\u00a0 5.5 mm Nut Driver (or #2 Philips screwdriver) Snap-Ring Pliers (heavy duty) Heavy Spring Hook (or a small flat-head screwdriver) Parts you\u2019ll need: Fuser Cleaning Web Fuser Heat Roller CRUM Chip (for resetting the fuser counter) Picker Fingers (set of 5) Thermistor repair tape (Kapton tape) Other parts you might need: Pressure Roll: It\u2019s been reported from the field that the pressure roll may not need replacing all the time. \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 We\u2019ve seen that although the surface becomes twisted and wrinkly shortly into the roller\u2019s life, it usually continues to serve its purpose without a problem. Web Pinch Roll: Check this orange foam roll for any bad flat spots which might be severe enough to cause it to stop turning. The pinch roll does not always require replacing. Procedure: (This procedure shows the 5675 version although other versions are very similar) Important General Tip:\u00a0 The plastic parts in fusers often get brittle due to exposure to heat and ozone and can become fragile, so be gentle when handling the parts, and take care not to over-tighten the screws when you put things back together.   Start by removing the Top Cover (4 screws from the top), followed by the front yellow handle which lifts out easily once the top cover is off. Next, remove the Picker Finger Assembly from the right side of the fuser (2 screws from the right). Unplug the Exit Sensor\u2019s connector near the rear end of the assembly (see Photo #2). Replace the 5 Picker Fingers. Inspect the Exit Sensor and its Actuator (be particularly gentle with the tip of the Actuator as it can be fragile). Remove each Finger Spring and then rotate the finger till the slots on the finger\u2019s holes line up with the protrusions on the plastic which they are mounted on (see Photo #3). Remove the Web Assembly by first sliding the off-white colored Web Drive Coupling off of the web, and then removing 2 screws from the top. Note that the front screw also holds the metal tensioner for the Web Drive Coupling in place (this piece prevents the coupling from turning backwards). Replace the Web and check the Web Pinch Roll (if it has a bad flat spot, replace it as well). Now for removing the Bottom Cover: First open the Lower Right Baffle and use a spring-hook to release the spring near the rear end (see Photo #4). Then Remove 4 screws (long plastic-thread screws). Two of these screws are from the front end (low down, see Photo #5), and two screws are from the rear end (also low down). Then you can lift the fuser out of the bottom cover. Pay attention to the front end. You\u2019ll need to lift the assembly a bit and then shift it toward the front end to navigate the green tension release handle out of the cover. Disconnect the 2 front Fuser Lamp Connectors and remove the Front Lamp Holder Bracket (1 screw). Disconnect the 2 rear Fuser Lamp Connectors. You\u2019ll also want to remove 1 screw (from the top) which holds a ground wire (green wire) to the top metal tie-bar (refer back to Photo #2). Next remove the Rear Lamp Holder Bracket (1 screw from the rear just above the heat lamp connectors). Now the Thermistor \/ Thermal Fuse Assembly is ready to be removed from the left side of the fuser (2 screws from the left). Re-tape the heads of the 2 Thermistors so that they do not wear all the way through during the fuser\u2019s second cycle. Check the 2 Thermal Fuses for continuity to make sure neither one […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":64,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[1648],"tags":[2120,2119],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11495"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/64"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=11495"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11495\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":11595,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11495\/revisions\/11595"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=11495"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=11495"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=11495"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}