{"id":10877,"date":"2014-12-30T10:19:30","date_gmt":"2014-12-30T15:19:30","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/?p=10877"},"modified":"2014-12-31T09:02:21","modified_gmt":"2014-12-31T14:02:21","slug":"xerox-4110-style-fuser-repairs","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/tech-tip\/2014\/12\/xerox-4110-style-fuser-repairs\/","title":{"rendered":"Xerox\u00ae 4110 style Fuser Repairs"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Fuser

Fuser Parts<\/p><\/div>\n

Rebuilding the Fuser Modules for the WorkCentre\u00ae<\/sup> <\/strong>4110 \/ 4112 \/ 4127 \/ 4590 \/ 4595 & D95 \/ D110 \/ D125<\/em><\/p>\n

Now here is a fuser module you really NEED to sink your teeth into.\u00a0 In the 4110 style copiers, the techs in the field almost always replace the parts in the fuser as needed.\u00a0 Replacing the whole fuser module is virtually unheard of, and for good reason.\u00a0 First off, the complete fuser retails for well over 2 G\u2019s. It is a serious piece of equipment designed to run for millions of pages with only the consumable pieces needing replacement at intervals.\u00a0 In this case, the OEM parts are spared (such a rarity these days).\u00a0 So it will definitely be important to know how to open these up to service them.\u00a0 We\u2019ll go through the important spared parts, and discuss alternative products which are becoming available.\u00a0 Also, we\u2019ll see how this fuser comes out of the machine, how to crack one open to replace stuff, and finally how to manage and reset counters.<\/p>\n

These guys are kind of refreshing really; most of the important parts are spared and they are actually quite easy to take apart.\u00a0 There is the Fuser Heat Roller Assembly, which includes the roll, the bearings, and 2 drive gears on the rear end. An alternative product which comes in considerably lower is the 4110FHRK, which is a kit of a heat roll, 2 bearings and 2 gears (for this option, you\u2019d re-use the existing spacer ring, bushings, & retaining clips).\u00a0 \u00a0The Press Roll Assembly comes with its heavy metal shaft and the pair of bearings.\u00a0 Here is a list of some of the more important parts in the fuser along with the OEM part #\u2019s:<\/p>\n

604K67880 \u2013Fuser Heat Roll<\/strong> Assembly<\/strong> (or 4110FHRK Fuser Heat Roll Kit for a generic choice) 059K37001 \u2013 Fuser Press Roll<\/strong> Assembly<\/strong> 130K64321 \/ 130K64331 \/ 130K64341 \u2013 Thermistors<\/strong> \u00a01\/2\/ & 3 008R13085 \u2013 Fuser Cleaning Cartridge<\/strong> (web cartridge) (or 4110FW for a generic web only choice) Other spared parts include the Heat and Press Picker Finger Assemblies (or the fingers alone if you prefer), also the thermostats and all 3 heat lamps are all available if needed.<\/p>\n

\"Photo

Photo #1: Web material – proper installation in Fuser Cleaning Cartridge.<\/p><\/div>\n

The most frequently replaced part in the fuser would be the Fuser Cleaning Cartridge (fuser module).\u00a0 There are several valid part numbers including 008R13042 \/ 008R13085 \/ 008R13000.\u00a0 These web cartridges retail for around $200.-.\u00a0 A less expensive alternative is to replace the web only with a good aftermarket product (example 4110FW \u2013 Fuser Web).\u00a0\u00a0 See photo #1 where you can see how the web material is routed in the web cartridge.\u00a0 The Cleaning Cartridge is removable by one centrally located screw near the front end, and then by releasing a single thumb screw near the rear end of the top of the Cleaning Cartridge.<\/p>\n

Now let\u2019s get into how to remove the fuser from the machine: FUSER REMOVAL: <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

CAUTION:<\/strong>\u00a0 These things get super hot, so shut down the machine and then allow plenty of time for the fuser to cool off before you handle it.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Photo

Photo #2: Fuser Front Cover \u2013 detach the Front Fuser Fan Connector & remove 2 screws marked 1 & 2 above<\/p><\/div>\n

1. Remove the Duplex Drawer by opening the front door and sliding the Duplex Drawer out. Release the stoppers found near the center of each rail, which when pushed in will allow the drawer to slide further till you can gently lift the Duplex Module off its rails.<\/p>\n

2. Push in and turn the green handle marked with a \u201c2\u201d to release the Marking Drawer. The Marking Drawer is the one in which the fuser sits. Slide it out and then release the stoppers found near the center of each rail. Releasing those will allow you to slide the Maintenance Drawer further out to the \u201cMaintenance Position.\u201d<\/p>\n

3. Remove the Fuser Cleaning Cartridge from the top of the fuser (1 screw + 1 thumbscrew).<\/p>\n

4. Take off the Front Cover of the Fuser (2 screws and release the front fuser cooling fan connector) (see Photo #2).<\/p>\n

5. Remove the Transfer Belt front cover (2 screws from the front).<\/p>\n

6. Remove the Pin Support (2 screws). This piece is located just to the right of the Marking Drawer Release Handle (a green lever-like handle with the \u201c2\u201d on it) below the fuser.<\/p>\n

7. Now open the \u201c2d\u201d Fuser Upper Chute and swing it up to the left out of the way.<\/p>\n

8. Be sure the fuser is cool first, then grab the fuser from the top center and lift it out of the Marking Drawer carefully.<\/p>\n

NOTE that when reinstalling the fuser, the fuser module has two holes in the bottom which line up with a pair of pins sticking up out of the Marking Drawer. To re-secure the Pin Support, wait till everything is back together and the Marking Drawer is slid all the way back into the machine with the green \u201c2\u201d lever back to its latched position, and THEN secure the Pin Support.<\/p>\n

Now that you have the fuser out of the machine, you can disassemble it. I think you\u2019ll like this.\u00a0 It\u2019s pretty easy once you know the ropes.<\/p>\n

\"Photo

Photo #3: Lower Input Chute (2 screws)<\/p><\/div>\n

FUSER DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE:<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

1. First take off the Lower Input Chute (2 screws) from the left side of the fuser (see Photo #3).<\/p>\n

2. Remove the Lower Exit Chute (2 screws) from the right side of the fuser (see Photos #4 & 5).<\/p>\n

3. Take off the Press Roll Picker Finger Assembly (2 screws fasten a pair of metal plates to a metal bar) (see Photo #6).<\/p>\n

4. Remove the 3 Fuser Heat Lamps by disconnecting their connectors at either end. At the rear end there is a Connector Cover which is snapped in place. Pay attention at this point to which ones go where to help make reassembly easier for you later. The two white connectors at the front end can be interchanged without a problem but at the rear end you have to have 1 white, 1 blue and 1 red connector.<\/p>\n

\"Photo

Photo #4: Lower input chute (2 screws)<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Photo

Photo #5: Lower Input Chute (2 screws)<\/p><\/div>\n

5. Next, you will be preparing to open up the Clam Shell to expose the Heat and Press Rolls. You must first raise the Upper Exit Chute (a green lever marked \u201c2a\u201d can be found at the front end of this chute which includes the Fuser Exit Sensor and the Heat Roll Picker Finger Assembly). Then you also need to remove one screw from the front end (see Photo #7) and one from the rear end (see Photo #8).<\/p>\n

6.Now open the Clam Shell up by pivoting the heat roll half of the fuser up and to your left (if you\u2019re facing the front end of the fuser) till the fuser is fully opened up (see Photo #9 for a fully opened fuser).<\/p>\n

\"Photo

Photo #6: Press Roll finger Assembly removal.<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Photo

Photo #7: Front Clam Release Screw<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Photo

Photo # 8: Rear Clam Release Screws<\/p><\/div>\n

7. Now you can remove the Pressure Roll Assembly out of its cradle. Note at this time how the Press Roll Shaft sits securely in the lever grooves, so you can return it to the same position at reinstallation<\/p>\n

8. Next comes the Fuser Heat Roll Assembly. Loosen the screw which keeps the front Heat Roll Stopper Arm in place (see Photo #9). Similarly, loosen the screw which keeps the rear stopper arm in place. Lift both Stopper Arms up and out of the way and you can remove the Fuser Heat Roll from its cradle.<\/p>\n

\"Photo

Photo #9: Heat Roll Stopper Arm Release.<\/p><\/div>\n

9. When replacing the Heat Roll it\u2019s a good idea to re-tape the Thermistor Heads with fresh Kapton Tape, or replace the Thermistors entirely. Note also that the bearings are very important parts in these fusers. Often the Heat Roll Bearings will fail far in advance of the Heat Roll\u2019s surface being worn out. Fortunately, replacement bearings can be found (4110FHRB).<\/p>\n

Now for resetting the counters. To clear the web count, you will hold down \u20189\u2019 and \u2018Stop\u2019 together till the prompt asks if you\u2019ve replaced the Cleaning Cartridge.\u00a0 Choose \u201cYes\u201d to reset values to \u20180\u2019.\u00a0 Simple enough most times, but if the machine keeps asking for a web cartridge after that,\u00a0 it may in some cases be necessary to go also into NVM Read \/ Write and reset code 744-167 back to \u20180\u2019.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Photo

Photo #10: Fuser Nip (pressure) Adjustment Nuts \u2013 Front.<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Photo

Photo #11: Fuser Nip (pressure) Adjustment Nuts \u2013 Rear.<\/p><\/div>\n

Finally, here is how to manage the HFSI (High Frequency Service Items) counters for the other fuser parts.\u00a0 First go into Diagnostic Mode by holding down the \u20180\u2019 button for 5 seconds and then, while still holding the \u20180\u2019, press \u2018Start\u2019.\u00a0 A prompt for the \u201cCE Access Number\u201d will show up.\u00a0 Use the default password \u20186789\u2019 followed by \u2018Confirm\u2019. If that does not work, some newer models instead require that you hold down together \u2018*\u2019, \u2018#\u2019, & \u2018Stop\u2019 until the password prompt shows up.\u00a0 Then use the \u20186789\u2019 default password.\u00a0 Press \u2018Machine Status\u2019 button to see the UI Diagnostic screen. From there, choose \u2018System Settings,\u2019 then \u2018Common Settings,\u2019 followed by \u2018Maintenance \/ Diagnostics.\u2019\u00a0 Then look for \u201cHFSI Counters.\u201d\u00a0 Below is a quick list of the HFSI (High Frequency Service Item) codes so you\u2019ll know what chain \u2013 link code to enter:<\/p>\n

HFSI Counter Reset codes: <\/span><\/strong>954-841 :\u00a0 Fuser Heat Roll 954-842 : Fuser Press Roll 954-843 : Heat Roll Fingers 954-844 : Press Roll Fingers 954-845 : Thermistors<\/p>\n

That should do the trick!\u00a0 I hope you enjoy working on these fusers.\u00a0 Happy repairs folks.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Rebuilding the Fuser Modules for the WorkCentre\u00ae 4110 \/ 4112 \/ 4127 \/ 4590 \/ 4595 & D95 \/ D110 \/ D125 Now here is a fuser module you really NEED to sink your teeth into.\u00a0 In the 4110 style copiers, the techs in the field almost always replace the parts in the fuser as needed.\u00a0 Replacing the whole fuser module is virtually unheard of, and for good reason.\u00a0 First off, the complete fuser retails for well over 2 G\u2019s. It is a serious piece of equipment designed to run for millions of pages with only the consumable pieces needing replacement at intervals.\u00a0 In this case, the OEM parts are spared (such a rarity these days).\u00a0 So it will definitely be important to know how to open these up to service them.\u00a0 We\u2019ll go through the important spared parts, and discuss alternative products which are becoming available.\u00a0 Also, we\u2019ll see how this fuser comes out of the machine, how to crack one open to replace stuff, and finally how to manage and reset counters. These guys are kind of refreshing really; most of the important parts are spared and they are actually quite easy to take apart.\u00a0 There is the Fuser Heat Roller Assembly, which includes the roll, the bearings, and 2 drive gears on the rear end. An alternative product which comes in considerably lower is the 4110FHRK, which is a kit of a heat roll, 2 bearings and 2 gears (for this option, you\u2019d re-use the existing spacer ring, bushings, & retaining clips).\u00a0 \u00a0The Press Roll Assembly comes with its heavy metal shaft and the pair of bearings.\u00a0 Here is a list of some of the more important parts in the fuser along with the OEM part #\u2019s: 604K67880 \u2013Fuser Heat Roll Assembly (or 4110FHRK Fuser Heat Roll Kit for a generic choice) 059K37001 \u2013 Fuser Press Roll Assembly 130K64321 \/ 130K64331 \/ 130K64341 \u2013 Thermistors \u00a01\/2\/ & 3 008R13085 \u2013 Fuser Cleaning Cartridge (web cartridge) (or 4110FW for a generic web only choice) Other spared parts include the Heat and Press Picker Finger Assemblies (or the fingers alone if you prefer), also the thermostats and all 3 heat lamps are all available if needed. The most frequently replaced part in the fuser would be the Fuser Cleaning Cartridge (fuser module).\u00a0 There are several valid part numbers including 008R13042 \/ 008R13085 \/ 008R13000.\u00a0 These web cartridges retail for around $200.-.\u00a0 A less expensive alternative is to replace the web only with a good aftermarket product (example 4110FW \u2013 Fuser Web).\u00a0\u00a0 See photo #1 where you can see how the web material is routed in the web cartridge.\u00a0 The Cleaning Cartridge is removable by one centrally located screw near the front end, and then by releasing a single thumb screw near the rear end of the top of the Cleaning Cartridge. Now let\u2019s get into how to remove the fuser from the machine: FUSER REMOVAL: CAUTION:\u00a0 These things get super hot, so shut down the machine and then allow plenty of time for the fuser to cool off before you handle it.   1. Remove the Duplex Drawer by opening the front door and sliding the Duplex Drawer out. Release the stoppers found near the center of each rail, which when pushed in will allow the drawer to slide further till you can gently lift the Duplex Module off its rails. 2. Push in and turn the green handle marked with a \u201c2\u201d to release the Marking Drawer. The Marking Drawer is the one in which the fuser sits. Slide it out and then release the stoppers found near the center of each rail. Releasing those will allow you to slide the Maintenance Drawer further out to the \u201cMaintenance Position.\u201d 3. Remove the Fuser Cleaning Cartridge from the top of the fuser (1 screw + 1 thumbscrew). 4. Take off the Front Cover of the Fuser (2 screws and release the front fuser cooling fan connector) (see Photo #2). 5. Remove the Transfer Belt front cover (2 screws from the front). 6. Remove the Pin Support (2 screws). This piece is located just to the right of the Marking Drawer Release Handle (a green lever-like handle with the \u201c2\u201d on it) below the fuser. 7. Now open the \u201c2d\u201d Fuser Upper Chute and swing it up to the left out of the way. 8. Be sure the fuser is cool first, then grab the fuser from the top center and lift it out of the Marking Drawer carefully. NOTE that when reinstalling the fuser, the fuser module has two holes in the bottom which line up with a pair of pins sticking up out of the Marking Drawer. To re-secure the Pin Support, wait till everything is back together and the Marking Drawer is slid all the way back into the machine with the green \u201c2\u201d lever back to its latched position, and THEN secure the Pin Support. Now that you have the fuser out of the machine, you can disassemble it. I think you\u2019ll like this.\u00a0 It\u2019s pretty easy once you know the ropes. FUSER DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE: 1. First take off the Lower Input Chute (2 screws) from the left side of the fuser (see Photo #3). 2. Remove the Lower Exit Chute (2 screws) from the right side of the fuser (see Photos #4 & 5). 3. Take off the Press Roll Picker Finger Assembly (2 screws fasten a pair of metal plates to a metal bar) (see Photo #6). 4. Remove the 3 Fuser Heat Lamps by disconnecting their connectors at either end. At the rear end there is a Connector Cover which is snapped in place. Pay attention at this point to which ones go where to help make reassembly easier for you later. The two white connectors at the front end can be interchanged without a problem but at the rear end you have to have 1 white, 1 blue and 1 red connector. 5. Next, you will be preparing to open up the […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":64,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[1648],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10877"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/64"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=10877"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10877\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":10912,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10877\/revisions\/10912"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=10877"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=10877"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=10877"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}