{"id":9774,"date":"2013-03-01T20:13:45","date_gmt":"2013-03-02T01:13:45","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/?p=9774"},"modified":"2014-11-03T20:21:06","modified_gmt":"2014-11-04T01:21:06","slug":"xerox-phaser-3635-style-fuser-modules","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/tech-tip\/2013\/03\/xerox-phaser-3635-style-fuser-modules\/","title":{"rendered":"Xerox Phaser 3635 Style Fuser Modules"},"content":{"rendered":"

Repairing and rebuilding the fusers for the Xerox\u00ae Phaser\u00ae 3635 & WC3550<\/span>
\n<\/strong><\/span>
\nThe Phaser\u00ae 3635 and WorkCentre\u00ae 3550 models are rather popular multi-function machines. They are still being sold as new equipment for between $1100 and $1600. Pretty soon the fusers will need servicing so let\u2019s get up to speed on this unit. We\u2019ll talk about the various faults which relate to the fuser and then take one apart. Finally we\u2019ll look at how the fuser life counter (HFSI \u2013 High Frequency Service Item) can be reset from the control panel.\u00a0 \"\"<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Phaser\u00ae 3635 Fuser Assembly<\/strong>
\n<\/span>
\nThe fusers for these machines are given a stated yield of 100 K pages. They are designed to be replaced by a technician. For dealers with machines under contract, repairing the fusers will be one way to keep costs down. For independent repair companies, repairing fusers will be part of the bread and butter of servicing the machines.<\/p>\n

When the fuser fails to warm up properly, the machine will show a message \u201cFuser Error\u201d or \u201cLow Heat Error\u201d and the associated fault codes would be 10-100 or 10-200. For this type of failure, you\u2019d want to check the Fuser Thermostat (thermal fuses) and the Fuser Heat Lamp to see if one of these two components has blown. The fuser lamp \/ thermostat circuit can be measured at the two larger flat pins on the connector on the fuser\u2019s Inner Face. The fuser lamp circuit should measure less than 2 ohms when the fuser is cold (16 ohms for 220 volt fusers). If the fuser measures \u201copen\u201d, you can also check the two thermostats (thermal fuses) to see if one is blown due to an over-heat condition. They are easy to get to since they\u2019re exposed on the top face of the fuser.<\/p>\n

An \u201cOverheat Error\u201d message (10-300) would mean you\u2019d want to check out the thermistor to make sure it\u2019s clean and making good contact with the fuser heat roller\u2019s surface. You\u2019d also want to make sure the machine has sufficient breathing room around it and watch for a failing fuser cooling fan as a possibility.<\/p>\n

If the fuser count is nearly up, the machine will give the message \u201cFuser Warning\u201d (10-500) and soon after \u201cReplace Fuser\u201d (10-510). This message only comes up on the Phaser\u00ae 3635 (the WC-3550 doesn\u2019t keep track of the fuser count at all). The fault message and code will persist until you reset the count from the diagnostics. We\u2019ll cover that bit later after the repair procedure.<\/p>\n

The fuser can be bought as a complete assembly under the part number 126N00326 for the 110 volt version (or 126N00327 for 220 volt machines). The OEM Parts List also spares some of the parts. They show the Fuser Heat Lamp as 122N00260 for 110 volts (or 122N00261 for 220 volts). The Thermistor is 130N01489, and the Thermostat (double thermal fuse) is 130N01490. The OEM book comes up short, however, on the Fuser Heat Roll, which is unquestionably the most important component in the fuser as far as adding longevity to it. Fortunately, good aftermarket Heat Rolls are available out there.<\/p>\n

Now let\u2019s get oriented and see how this baby comes apart. We\u2019ll refer to the \u201cOuter Face\u201d as the face with the yellow warning sticker and the green handles. The \u201cTop\u201d of the fuser then will be the face with the Thermostat (double thermal fuses) and the \u201cBottom\u201d of the fuser will be the metal plate underneath. We\u2019ll call the geared end of the fuser the \u201cDrive End\u201d and the opposite end will be the \u201cNon-Drive End\u201d.<\/p>\n

\"xer\"<\/p>\n

\"xer2\"<\/p>\n

\"xer3\"<\/p>\n

Fuser Disassembly Procedure:<\/span>
\n<\/strong>
\n1. <\/strong> <\/span>First remove the \u201cDrive End\u201d and \u201cNon-Drive End\u201d Lamp Terminal Covers. Each one is clipped in place. Use a small flat-head screwdriver to release the clips nearest the lamp terminals. In Photo #1 you can see the Terminal Cover on the Drive end outlined in white. An arrow points out the best place to pry to release the clip. Photo #2 shows one of the Lamp Terminal Covers after it\u2019s been removed.<\/p>\n

2.<\/span> <\/strong>You can now pull the spade-lug connectors off of the lamp terminals on either end. Then remove the two screws from the lamp\u2019s terminals and the Fuser Heat Lamp can be gently extracted.<\/p>\n

3. <\/strong> <\/span>Next you\u2019ll want to take the Top Cover off. It is held on by two screws from the top and one from either end. The screw from the Drive End (see Photo #3) and the top screw nearest the Drive End serve to retain a metal bracket, which has two Idler Gears on it. Take that gear bracket off at this point. Now with the 4 screws off you can lift the Top Cover off.<\/p>\n

4.<\/strong><\/span> You can remove the \u201cOuter Face\u201d cover by pulling down the two green Pressure Release Handles and then releasing the green spring-loaded latch near the Drive End of the fuser, at which point the Outer Cover can pivot out like a door that is hinged on a pair of pins at the Non Drive End. This Outer Cover has the Fuser Exit Roller and the Fuser Exit Actuator on it (Photo #4 shows the top cover off of the fuser).
\n5. Now you can remove the Fuser Heat Roller. With the Top Cover off, you can simply slide the Heat Roll Drive Gear off followed by the Heat Roll Bearings and Bushings. (Photo #5 shows what the fuser looks like after the heat roll is out. It\u2019s basically just a frame with the two Pressure Rollers).<\/p>\n

6.<\/strong><\/span> The Pressure Rollers (two of them) will fall right out of their cradles now so watch out for them. They are the kind of roller which has an orange foam-rubber core with a black microsleeve as an outer coating. These will often look wrinkly and twisted and still work just fine for another full cycle without incident.<\/p>\n

7. <\/strong> <\/span>Clean everything up nicely. Re-taping the thermistor\u2019s head with a single fresh layer of Kapton tape is recommended. This helps to preserve the thermistor and also to help protect the new Heat Roller\u2019s surface.<\/p>\n

8. <\/strong> <\/span>Reassemble the fuser. Pay special attention to keeping the Fuser Picker Fingers retracted fully away from the Fuser Heat Roller\u2019s surface when you\u2019re reinstalling the Top Cover. If you don\u2019t do this, the heat roll\u2019s surface is easily damaged. You can use paper clips to hold the Picker Fingers out of harm\u2019s way (See Photo #6).
\nThat\u2019s all there is to it! A very friendly fuser, worthy of a technician\u2019s attention.<\/p>\n

Resetting the Fuser Counter (HFSI) on the Phaser\u00ae 3635: (Note that no reset is needed on the WC-3550 because it doesn\u2019t keep track of the HFSI counters the way the Phaser model does.)<\/p>\n

First enter Diagnostic Mode: For Phaser\u00ae 3635, hold down \u2018#\u2019 key and press \u2018Log In \/ Out\u2019 while still holding down \u2018#\u2019 (If you were entering diagnostics on the WC-3550 you would instead press \u2018Menu\u2019 followed by the \u2018#\u2019 key). This will bring up the Password Screen. Enter the password \u20181934\u2019.<\/p>\n

Now select \u2018Service Info\u2019 and then touch \u2018HFSI\u2019. A chart with the two HFSI\u2019s which this model tracks will be shown (the fuser and the Document Feed Head are the only two choices). Choose the \u2018fuser\u2019 and touch \u2018Reset\u2019 followed by \u2018OK\u2019. You can also change the \u2018max value\u2019 if you want to. Setting the \u2018max value\u2019 to \u20180\u2019 will effectively make the HFSI not tracked, meaning the machine will never call for that HFSI again.<\/p>\n

When you\u2019re done, press \u2018Exit\u2019 followed by \u2018Call Closeout\u2019. During the call closeout, the machine will ask if you want to \u2018reset counters\u2019. That sounds tempting but you\u2019ll be better off leaving that set to \u2018no\u2019 becau\u00adse choosing \u2018yes\u2019 will delete all of the fault history for the machine. You may want to refer back to that fault history information at a later date, so leaving it intact makes more sense.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Repairing and rebuilding the fusers for the Xerox\u00ae Phaser\u00ae 3635 & WC3550 The Phaser\u00ae 3635 and WorkCentre\u00ae 3550 models are rather popular multi-function machines. They are still being sold as new equipment for between $1100 and $1600. Pretty soon the fusers will need servicing so let\u2019s get up to speed on this unit. We\u2019ll talk about the various faults which relate to the fuser and then take one apart. Finally we\u2019ll look at how the fuser life counter (HFSI \u2013 High Frequency Service Item) can be reset from the control panel.\u00a0 Phaser\u00ae 3635 Fuser Assembly The fusers for these machines are given a stated yield of 100 K pages. They are designed to be replaced by a technician. For dealers with machines under contract, repairing the fusers will be one way to keep costs down. For independent repair companies, repairing fusers will be part of the bread and butter of servicing the machines. When the fuser fails to warm up properly, the machine will show a message \u201cFuser Error\u201d or \u201cLow Heat Error\u201d and the associated fault codes would be 10-100 or 10-200. For this type of failure, you\u2019d want to check the Fuser Thermostat (thermal fuses) and the Fuser Heat Lamp to see if one of these two components has blown. The fuser lamp \/ thermostat circuit can be measured at the two larger flat pins on the connector on the fuser\u2019s Inner Face. The fuser lamp circuit should measure less than 2 ohms when the fuser is cold (16 ohms for 220 volt fusers). If the fuser measures \u201copen\u201d, you can also check the two thermostats (thermal fuses) to see if one is blown due to an over-heat condition. They are easy to get to since they\u2019re exposed on the top face of the fuser. An \u201cOverheat Error\u201d message (10-300) would mean you\u2019d want to check out the thermistor to make sure it\u2019s clean and making good contact with the fuser heat roller\u2019s surface. You\u2019d also want to make sure the machine has sufficient breathing room around it and watch for a failing fuser cooling fan as a possibility. If the fuser count is nearly up, the machine will give the message \u201cFuser Warning\u201d (10-500) and soon after \u201cReplace Fuser\u201d (10-510). This message only comes up on the Phaser\u00ae 3635 (the WC-3550 doesn\u2019t keep track of the fuser count at all). The fault message and code will persist until you reset the count from the diagnostics. We\u2019ll cover that bit later after the repair procedure. The fuser can be bought as a complete assembly under the part number 126N00326 for the 110 volt version (or 126N00327 for 220 volt machines). The OEM Parts List also spares some of the parts. They show the Fuser Heat Lamp as 122N00260 for 110 volts (or 122N00261 for 220 volts). The Thermistor is 130N01489, and the Thermostat (double thermal fuse) is 130N01490. The OEM book comes up short, however, on the Fuser Heat Roll, which is unquestionably the most important component in the fuser as far as adding longevity to it. Fortunately, good aftermarket Heat Rolls are available out there. Now let\u2019s get oriented and see how this baby comes apart. We\u2019ll refer to the \u201cOuter Face\u201d as the face with the yellow warning sticker and the green handles. The \u201cTop\u201d of the fuser then will be the face with the Thermostat (double thermal fuses) and the \u201cBottom\u201d of the fuser will be the metal plate underneath. We\u2019ll call the geared end of the fuser the \u201cDrive End\u201d and the opposite end will be the \u201cNon-Drive End\u201d. Fuser Disassembly Procedure: 1. First remove the \u201cDrive End\u201d and \u201cNon-Drive End\u201d Lamp Terminal Covers. Each one is clipped in place. Use a small flat-head screwdriver to release the clips nearest the lamp terminals. In Photo #1 you can see the Terminal Cover on the Drive end outlined in white. An arrow points out the best place to pry to release the clip. Photo #2 shows one of the Lamp Terminal Covers after it\u2019s been removed. 2. You can now pull the spade-lug connectors off of the lamp terminals on either end. Then remove the two screws from the lamp\u2019s terminals and the Fuser Heat Lamp can be gently extracted. 3. Next you\u2019ll want to take the Top Cover off. It is held on by two screws from the top and one from either end. The screw from the Drive End (see Photo #3) and the top screw nearest the Drive End serve to retain a metal bracket, which has two Idler Gears on it. Take that gear bracket off at this point. Now with the 4 screws off you can lift the Top Cover off. 4. You can remove the \u201cOuter Face\u201d cover by pulling down the two green Pressure Release Handles and then releasing the green spring-loaded latch near the Drive End of the fuser, at which point the Outer Cover can pivot out like a door that is hinged on a pair of pins at the Non Drive End. This Outer Cover has the Fuser Exit Roller and the Fuser Exit Actuator on it (Photo #4 shows the top cover off of the fuser). 5. Now you can remove the Fuser Heat Roller. With the Top Cover off, you can simply slide the Heat Roll Drive Gear off followed by the Heat Roll Bearings and Bushings. (Photo #5 shows what the fuser looks like after the heat roll is out. It\u2019s basically just a frame with the two Pressure Rollers). 6. The Pressure Rollers (two of them) will fall right out of their cradles now so watch out for them. They are the kind of roller which has an orange foam-rubber core with a black microsleeve as an outer coating. These will often look wrinkly and twisted and still work just fine for another full cycle without incident. 7. Clean everything up nicely. Re-taping the thermistor\u2019s head with a single fresh layer of Kapton tape is recommended. This helps to preserve the […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":64,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[1649,1814,1648],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9774"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/64"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=9774"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9774\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":9788,"href":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9774\/revisions\/9788"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=9774"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=9774"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=9774"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}