{"id":8520,"date":"2014-07-01T21:21:50","date_gmt":"2014-07-02T01:21:50","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/?p=8520"},"modified":"2014-10-27T15:36:14","modified_gmt":"2014-10-27T19:36:14","slug":"xerox-7132-style-fuser-modules","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/tech-tip\/2014\/07\/xerox-7132-style-fuser-modules\/","title":{"rendered":"Xerox 7132 Style Fuser Modules"},"content":{"rendered":"

Repairing and Rebuilding the Fusers for the (WorkCentre) WC-7132 (008R13022), & 7232 \/ 7242 (008R13044)<\/strong><\/p>\n

The 7132 full color multi-function copiers and the 7232 & 7242 models which followed were met with lukewarm enthusiasm by most techs, due mainly to the fact that they use a carousel design for the developer units.\u00a0 Not the best idea.\u00a0 Still, they met with fairly good acceptance among customers in the field, and there are quite a few out there looking to be serviced.\u00a0 The Fuser Modules are definitely worth rebuilding. New fusers are relatively costly, and reliable Heat Rolls and Pressure Sleeves are available nowadays in the aftermarket.\u00a0 We will go over the background on the two fuser versions, go through the rebuild procedure, and then look at how to reset the Fuser Count.<\/p>\n

\"fuser\"<\/p>\n

There are two fuser types in this series.\u00a0 First came the one for the 7132 (008R13022).\u00a0 Later on with the release of the models 7232 & 7242, there came a new version (008R13044).\u00a0 The two are extremely similar to one another although they are not interchangeable because of differences in the shape of the inner cover of the fuser.\u00a0 It appears that if you were to swap that cover, they would probably serve in each others\u2019 place in a pinch.\u00a0 The rebuilding procedure is identical and the important parts such as the heat roller are interchangeable.<\/p>\n

The fuser is pretty typical of modern Xerox fusers. It mounts similar to many before it.\u00a0 You just pop open the left side door to the machine, release by turning a pair of thumb-screws and extract the fuser using a pair of finger-pull rings.\u00a0 If you look at the photos of this fuser, at first glance, it may remind you of the 7425 or 7120 fusers.\u00a0 They turn out to be quite different once you get a closer look and open one up.<\/p>\n

The Heat Rollers are silicon over metal, much like the 7120 and 7425 fuser heat rollers.\u00a0 A flexible Pressure Sleeve handles the pressure end of things.\u00a0 There is a fuse to be found on a small CRUM (Customer Replaceable Unit Monitor) board inside the rear end of the fuser although you can reset the fuser count from the control panel.\u00a0 We\u2019ll have a look at that process after the rebuilding instructions below.<\/p>\n

Let\u2019s start by getting oriented.\u00a0 Check out Photo #1 which will show you which end we\u2019ll refer to as the \u201cRear End\u201d (the drive gear end) vs. the \u201cFront End\u201d, and also which is the \u201cOuter Cover\u201d (the cover facing you when you go to a machine).\u00a0 The yellow Exit Guide is up Top.<\/p>\n

REBUILDING PROCEDURE:<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. First take off the yellow Fuser Exit Guide.<\/strong> It is pinned in at the pivot point closest to the front end of the fuser by one plastic black anchor pin which can be extracted using a flat-head screwdriver (see Photo #2).<\/li>\n
  2. Now remove the \u201cOuter Cover\u201d<\/strong> (2 screws).<\/li>\n
  3. Then turn the unit over and remove the \u201cInner Cover\u201d<\/strong> (3 screws). This cover will resist coming off. Work at the Front End first by getting the front heat lamp\u2019s wire off of the ledge on the Inner Cover (see the yellow arrow in Photo #3).\u00a0 Then lift the front end of the cover up (see the white arrow in Photo #3).\u00a0 Then you can pivot the cover away to sneak it out from under the Fuser Drive Idler Gear at the rear end.\u00a0 Be patient and gentle.<\/li>\n
  4. Next, release the front Fuser Lamp wire\u2019s spade-lug from the thermostat<\/strong> (see Photo #4) Take the wire out of its channel to free it up.<\/li>\n
  5. Now it\u2019s time to get the Fuser Pressure Sleeve Assembly off.<\/strong> First make sure to either mark the Pressure Screws, take a picture on your smart phone, or count the threads below the frame so you can return these to the same fuser tension when you reassemble everything later.\u00a0 Once you have those marked, back out the two Pressure Screws taking care not to lose the springs or washers.\u00a0 Then pivot the assembly up off of the metal cradle arms (the cradle arms will come right off of their pins).\u00a0 Photo # 5 shows the Pressure Sleeve assembly already off of the fuser, with one of the cradles which held it shown to its left.<\/li>\n
  6. Ok here\u2019s the trick. You will need to release the Rear Lamp Terminal Holder to gain the clearance you\u2019ll need to shift the Fuser Heat Lamp rearward.<\/strong>\u00a0 There are actually only two screws which you need disturb<\/strong> (see Photo #6). You will also need to unseat a group of wires from their wire channel (the group of wires which go from the Fuser Main Connector around towards the Thermistor and Thermostat). This is because these wires are tight enough that they prevent the Rear Lamp Terminal Holder from shifting toward the rear end the way you\u2019ll want it to.<\/li>\n
  7. Once there\u2019s enough play at the rear lamp terminal holder, you can shift the lamp rearward far enough to sneak the white wires at the front end out of the Front Lamp Holder Bracket <\/strong> (see Photo #7).<\/li>\n
  8. Next, remove the Heat Roll Stripper Plate<\/strong> (3 screws with washers). CAUTION: First pay attention to how this piece sits in relation to the Fuser Heat Roll\u2019s surface.\u00a0 You can mark where it is on the frame, or just become aware of how much room there is between the Heat Roll and the edge of the Stripper Plate.\u00a0 It should be almost touching, but not quite, and it should be evenly spaced if you compare from end to end.\u00a0 When you reassemble things later, keep in mind that if the Stripper Plate is riding against the Heat Roll it may damage it.\u00a0 Yet if it\u2019s too far away, it may catch the lead edge of the paper and cause jamming problems.<\/li>\n
  9. Finally you can remove the Fuser Heat Roller Assembly<\/strong> by lifting on the front end and sliding it out over the Fuser Heat Lamp (see Photo #8).<\/li>\n
  10. Recovering and re-installing the Heat Roll Bearings is a job in itself.<\/strong> You need something to tap firmly and repeatedly on either side of the bearing.\u00a0 Using a pair of large pliers worked for me, although it was a crude solution (see Photo #9).\u00a0 A Heat Roll with the bearings preinstalled is something which is expected to be made available in the near future.\u00a0 That will be a welcome improvement indeed.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    \"yellow\"
    \n\"yellow2\"
    \n\"yellow3\"
    \n\"yellow4\"<\/p>\n

    Well done! Now with the fuser newly rebuilt, you\u2019ll need to reset the Fuser Count. On this machine it is a relatively simple matter, as there are no CRUMs nor fuses in this type of fuser. You can reset the count from the control panel.<\/p>\n

    RESETTING THE FUSER COUNT:<\/span><\/p>\n

    Press \u2018Machine Status\u2019 and select the \u2018Supplies\u2019 tab. Then choose \u201cFuser Smart Kit.\u201d<\/p>\n

    Select \u2018Reset Counter\u2019 and press \u2018Yes.\u2019 Piece of cake! Have a great July! Happy fuser repairs everyone!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    Repairing and Rebuilding the Fusers for the (WorkCentre) WC-7132 (008R13022), & 7232 \/ 7242 (008R13044) The 7132 full color multi-function copiers and the 7232 & 7242 models which followed were met with lukewarm enthusiasm by most techs, due mainly to the fact that they use a carousel design for the developer units.\u00a0 Not the best idea.\u00a0 Still, they met with fairly good acceptance among customers in the field, and there are quite a few out there looking to be serviced.\u00a0 The Fuser Modules are definitely worth rebuilding. New fusers are relatively costly, and reliable Heat Rolls and Pressure Sleeves are available nowadays in the aftermarket.\u00a0 We will go over the background on the two fuser versions, go through the rebuild procedure, and then look at how to reset the Fuser Count. There are two fuser types in this series.\u00a0 First came the one for the 7132 (008R13022).\u00a0 Later on with the release of the models 7232 & 7242, there came a new version (008R13044).\u00a0 The two are extremely similar to one another although they are not interchangeable because of differences in the shape of the inner cover of the fuser.\u00a0 It appears that if you were to swap that cover, they would probably serve in each others\u2019 place in a pinch.\u00a0 The rebuilding procedure is identical and the important parts such as the heat roller are interchangeable. The fuser is pretty typical of modern Xerox fusers. It mounts similar to many before it.\u00a0 You just pop open the left side door to the machine, release by turning a pair of thumb-screws and extract the fuser using a pair of finger-pull rings.\u00a0 If you look at the photos of this fuser, at first glance, it may remind you of the 7425 or 7120 fusers.\u00a0 They turn out to be quite different once you get a closer look and open one up. The Heat Rollers are silicon over metal, much like the 7120 and 7425 fuser heat rollers.\u00a0 A flexible Pressure Sleeve handles the pressure end of things.\u00a0 There is a fuse to be found on a small CRUM (Customer Replaceable Unit Monitor) board inside the rear end of the fuser although you can reset the fuser count from the control panel.\u00a0 We\u2019ll have a look at that process after the rebuilding instructions below. Let\u2019s start by getting oriented.\u00a0 Check out Photo #1 which will show you which end we\u2019ll refer to as the \u201cRear End\u201d (the drive gear end) vs. the \u201cFront End\u201d, and also which is the \u201cOuter Cover\u201d (the cover facing you when you go to a machine).\u00a0 The yellow Exit Guide is up Top. REBUILDING PROCEDURE: First take off the yellow Fuser Exit Guide. It is pinned in at the pivot point closest to the front end of the fuser by one plastic black anchor pin which can be extracted using a flat-head screwdriver (see Photo #2). Now remove the \u201cOuter Cover\u201d (2 screws). Then turn the unit over and remove the \u201cInner Cover\u201d (3 screws). This cover will resist coming off. Work at the Front End first by getting the front heat lamp\u2019s wire off of the ledge on the Inner Cover (see the yellow arrow in Photo #3).\u00a0 Then lift the front end of the cover up (see the white arrow in Photo #3).\u00a0 Then you can pivot the cover away to sneak it out from under the Fuser Drive Idler Gear at the rear end.\u00a0 Be patient and gentle. Next, release the front Fuser Lamp wire\u2019s spade-lug from the thermostat (see Photo #4) Take the wire out of its channel to free it up. Now it\u2019s time to get the Fuser Pressure Sleeve Assembly off. First make sure to either mark the Pressure Screws, take a picture on your smart phone, or count the threads below the frame so you can return these to the same fuser tension when you reassemble everything later.\u00a0 Once you have those marked, back out the two Pressure Screws taking care not to lose the springs or washers.\u00a0 Then pivot the assembly up off of the metal cradle arms (the cradle arms will come right off of their pins).\u00a0 Photo # 5 shows the Pressure Sleeve assembly already off of the fuser, with one of the cradles which held it shown to its left. Ok here\u2019s the trick. You will need to release the Rear Lamp Terminal Holder to gain the clearance you\u2019ll need to shift the Fuser Heat Lamp rearward.\u00a0 There are actually only two screws which you need disturb (see Photo #6). You will also need to unseat a group of wires from their wire channel (the group of wires which go from the Fuser Main Connector around towards the Thermistor and Thermostat). This is because these wires are tight enough that they prevent the Rear Lamp Terminal Holder from shifting toward the rear end the way you\u2019ll want it to. Once there\u2019s enough play at the rear lamp terminal holder, you can shift the lamp rearward far enough to sneak the white wires at the front end out of the Front Lamp Holder Bracket (see Photo #7). Next, remove the Heat Roll Stripper Plate (3 screws with washers). CAUTION: First pay attention to how this piece sits in relation to the Fuser Heat Roll\u2019s surface.\u00a0 You can mark where it is on the frame, or just become aware of how much room there is between the Heat Roll and the edge of the Stripper Plate.\u00a0 It should be almost touching, but not quite, and it should be evenly spaced if you compare from end to end.\u00a0 When you reassemble things later, keep in mind that if the Stripper Plate is riding against the Heat Roll it may damage it.\u00a0 Yet if it\u2019s too far away, it may catch the lead edge of the paper and cause jamming problems. Finally you can remove the Fuser Heat Roller Assembly by lifting on the front end and sliding it out over the Fuser Heat Lamp (see Photo #8). Recovering and […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":64,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[1649,1814,1648],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8520"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/64"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=8520"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8520\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8683,"href":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8520\/revisions\/8683"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=8520"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=8520"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.enxmag.com\/twii\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=8520"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}