January 2010 Subject: Kyocera Mita 2310 Wavy Lines-Laser Question: 2310 with 196K on it. Intermittently copies (not connected as printer) have waviness beginning at lead edge and improving later on in the page. Customer says he thinks it happens on the first copy or two and then goes away. I wasn’t able to duplicate it, but I saw the copies. I’m helping another dealer with this machine and I suggested checking the laser unit. He replaced it (with a used one) and the problem still occurs. It doesn’t seem to matter if ADF or glass. It might be happening only in reduction, but they reduce very often so that might be a red herring. It appears they never do long runs. The dealer had cleaned the registration roller, thinking the paper was maybe shifting, and I just tried replacing the transfer roller (I don’t know if it had any effect, but I doubt it). Any thoughts, other than “10 year old machine”, etc.? Answer: I would say laser also. Did the used laser work? If your friend knows it did for sure, I would start with optics (worn bearings, trucks). Usually if the problem is caused by the machine, you get stretched not wavy copies. This is why I never use used parts. One never knows. Answer: What about the cleaning blade or main charger? It doesn’t sound like there is a problem with the optics because you said it didn’t matter if it was on glass or ADF. I wish there was a way to post pictures on here; then we could see the actual page. Question: The used laser didn’t change things. Also, I didn’t make it clear. The wavy lines are not being put on the copy. Lines that belong on the copy are wavy. Unfortunately 1000 words can’t replace a picture! The lines that are parallel to the edge of the paper are wavy to the point of looking almost like triangles and then dipping back down again. Kind of like a sine wave (or AC voltage depiction) but pointy instead of rounded and with far smaller amplitude. I tried measuring them and there is no pattern to them. If the customer was an art colony they would probably love it but it’s a bunch of engineers and they expect it to be correct. Actually, they’re kind of cool looking (the copies, not the engineers). Answer: I really don’t know this box, but it almost sounds like the laser may not be getting enough power and the motor might not be spinning at proper speed, causing erratic latent image. It could possibly be power supply voltages? Answer: Purely based on the personality of this machine, I would start out by replacing the primary charge unit. I know this doesn’t seem to be the cause of the defect, but I’ve seen a lot of really strange issues on this machine. I’ve seen the 3010 caused by arcing in the charge and the charge arcing to common ground causing erratic fluctuations in LSU power or some such oddities. Good luck. This machine is not my favorite of the KyoMitas Answer: Do the wavy lines also print the same way in test prints? You can run the 089 sim and check it that way. If it does not print wavy lines in test print mode then the problem has to be in the optics. Maybe the CCD is going bad. Answer: I had a KM-3035 with the exact same issue and it was the laser unit. So if you have already replaced it, I would start with the main charge (oddball shorts cause oddball problems) and then check into the circuitry controlling the LSU (boards, harnesses etc.). It should be a fun project. Answer: This machine is known for lasers going out. And I would bet you took out a bad laser unit and installed another bad laser unit. Ask the customer if the machine starts to make a sound like a Boeing 747 taking off from the runway. If so, that is the sound of your laser going out. Do you have any codes coming up? Did the customer clear the trouble code by turning the machine off and then back on? Check your error codes. Answer: The exposure lamp regulator could be having issues with voltage frequency. It is very rare but aging capacitors can do that. Answer: Did you lube the optics? Subject: Removing the drum unit on a Minolta DI450 Question: I have loosened the two black shoulder screws. I checked the manual and it only says to open the front door and pull the unit out. Any help would be appreciated. Answer: If you have lowered the transfer assy like removing a jam and loosened the two black shoulder screws then it should come out. But it may be stuck, in which case you will have to remove the PWB in the back as well as the fly wheel and the three screws to the hub. Then you can either get a dent puller or try to rock the shaft assembly back and forth. I can send you the procedure if you wish. It’s a bulletin from when they tried to shim these or conductive grease was not put on the inside of the rear drum. Answer: I usually save those for my service manager. He can pull on it like he does not care. Even if I were to break it, the company will still pay for it. I just feel better if he breaks it. Answer: Push and pull. I have heard of lifting the machine by the Bypass side a couple of inches then dropping. Answer: A pry bar and a blow torch can fix anything. Tips appearing in this section are reprinted courtesy of Smarka! The Copier Tech’s Info Source. Tips are randomly selected from submissions emailed to Smarka! Smarka! and ENX Magazine make no guarantees as to the accuracy of tips presented here. Email your tips to Tips@smarka.com.  All tips become public domain.