Question: Another day, another learning experience I hope. Can anyone explain how to separate the drum from the developer so we can install a new developer in this machine? Obviously, this is our 1st time on this model, and my tech could get the drum and developer out as a unit but couldn’t split them to add the developer. Any input is appreciated. Thanks in advance! 

Answer: It doesn’t separate. At least I have never found a way to separate it. There are a couple screws you can remove to make the drum portion rotate a little. Remove the drum picker finger plate and then pull the drum shaft. Be careful— the waste toner can fall onto the other mag roller. Remove the gold screw (I think it is gold) from the developer cover. Lift the cover slightly and slide it off. You have to lift it over the plastic post where the screw was. Hope this helps... Good luck. 

Answer: Yeah, I agree with the above answer. This is a very tricky pm. You can easily mess up (overtone) your brand new developer by spilling toner into it and have to do it over again. Also be careful of the seal blades; it is very fragile and easy to mess up. FYI, the 1530/2030 developer works perfectly (use only 600 grams of it) and costs half as much. I’ve done it many times. With 100K pm on relatively low volume machines, I have never gotten comfortable enough with them to avoid making some of these mistakes more than once. I would lay paper over the developer until you are ready to reinstall it into the machine. Toner can dribble from the cleaner unit, off the old drum, etc. 

Question: Thanks guys. We’ll certainly take our time and be overly cautious. It just happens to be one of those accounts where the customer likes to stare over your shoulder all the time; we may have to utilize some of those techniques that have been posted. 

Answer: This is really not as bad as some make it out to be. Two screws in front and two in the rear allow you to swing the drum assy (?) up and away from the developer. Before removing the drum, release the drum blade spring. If you are doing a full PM, you want to VACUUM out the waste toner auger so that no waste toner drops into the developer. After removing one screw for DV top, the top pulls away from the front of the unit; if you break a couple rear tabs off the top, it is no big deal. I must get an mg scale to use the cheaper 2030 dv as Jim points out. Removing the drum with a flat blade from the front and inserting it back with some force does NOT damage this great Kyocera finish. I have gotten over 100k per drum on almost everyone I have done. Take your time and don’t sweat it. 

Answer: First 1810 I sold went 150K before the first service call (bad laser) and then went to 220K before I replaced the drum and about 280 before I rebuilt the fuser. It was doing 9k a month (under contract); now it has 320K but is a backup to a CS-3035. They are really strong machines but I still hate doing the developer/drum on them. 

Question: Thanks again for everyone’s input - we are going out either today or tomorrow and we’ll post our results. 

Answer: It does separate and I would do that so you can do a complete cleaning. 

Question: Thanks everyone - we made it out yesterday and we were able to split and vacuum the unit out so that we didn’t get any waste toner in the new developer. Definitely a different animal than what we’re used to working on but hey, we all need to be challenged now and then. It made it easier that our over-the-shoulder customer was out of the office too. By the way, I couldn’t believe it when I discovered this machine had 398K

on it! WOW! Anyways, thanks for everyone’s input on this one; now the next one won’t be nearly as bad. 

Question: This machine was blown out by the customer. It had leaked toner, and they blew it with an air compressor. It will not make any copies now, just blank sheets. I have replaced the t/d unit, the drum and the transfer corona. Help. 

Answer: CHECK SCANNER LOCK. 

Answer: I’m thinking that maybe when they “blew it out”, they blew toner into the laser or coated the slit glass somehow. After people blow it out, they sometimes need to blow it up. A compressor is a dangerous weapon in the wrong hands. 

Question: I have cleaned the slit glass of the laser, behind the fuser. And the scanner lock is unlocked. I also checked for a fuse to the hv units, but found none. I also metered the wires from the hv board to the connector of the charge and transfer corona.  I found the problem to have multiple components -  a bad HV. Board, toner dust everywhere, and I had to clean the laser unit as well. Put together, all is well. Does anyone know how to test the output of the hv units? 

Question: I have a Xerox model 5034 that has a code U2-2 that says “scan home sensor or scan drive motor encoder fault”. Is this a card? If so, where is it and where do I find it? Thanks. 

Answer: Under glass at l/h side, front of m/c (I think), test with code 6-2. Actuator on lamp carriage 

Answer: A U2 on these older Xerox’s is usually (but not always) caused simply by the home position switch being dirty. Under the glass and towards the front (control panel side) of the machine are 3 PI sensors: home position (left as you stand in front of the machine), book copy sensor (center), and the max position (right). These are easily accessible by removing the front upper cover under the operator panel. You may try cleaning them (it), or swapping the HP with the MP. Also, the actuating tab for these sensors is located on the front of the full-rate carriage. Make sure that it’s clean, intact, and breaking the sensor planes correctly. Hope this helps. 

Question: Thanks, I will give everything a try.